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With over 150,000 copies sold since its first publication, this is one of the most popular astronomy books of all time. This unique guidebook to the night sky shows you how to observe a host of celestial wonders. Its distinct format of object-by-object spreads illustrates how deep-sky objects and planets actually look through a small telescope, while its large pages and spiral binding allow for use outside. Along with updated star names and astronomical information, this new edition provides links to a dedicated webpage with up-to-date tables and images, and an improved planets chapter. The many Dobsonian-friendly images and small telescope views have been revised to account for changes in modern telescope technology, such as larger field of view eyepieces. With dedicated chapters on Northern and Southern Hemisphere objects, it's never been easier to explore the night sky, wherever you are. Additional resources are available on the accompanying website: www.cambridge.org/turnleft.
You can, of course, process film images with the same software that you use for DSLR images. Noise takes the form of random grain only; there is no fixed-pattern noise. Stacking multiple images builds contrast and reduces grain. First you have to get the film images (slides or negatives) into digital form. There are many methods. The best is a film scanner with a resolution of at least 2400 dpi (about 100 pixels/mm).
This chapter describes how to interpret published tests of DSLR sensors and how to test your own. We start by focusing on published tests. By the time you read this, the cameras tested here will not be the latest on the market, but they are good examples.
Digital imaging has narrowed the gap between professional and amateur astronomy. It is nowadays common for amateurs to photograph objects that are not very well known to science. We are no longer confined to just a few hundred prominent targets discovered centuries ago. Accordingly, we need to open up the professional astronomers’ kit of tools for identifying and researching celestial objects. The most important data sources are free on the Internet.
When I wrote the first edition of this book, I said that the time was not yet ripe for a comprehensive handbook of DSLR astrophotography. Now it is, and I have rewritten almost the entire book from scratch because so much has changed and so much more knowledge is available. And the torrent of new developments never stops. Please check this book’s web site, www.dslrbook.com, for updates and additional information immediately. Not everyone will read all the chapters of the book straight through. To cover such a complicated, technical subject, I have had to spiral outward through the subject matter, passing through several regions more than once.
Beyond the basics of image calibration, stacking, and gamma correction, many other techniques are also used to improve astronomical images. This chapter quickly surveys some of the most important. Several of the techniques in this chapter borrow a principle from artificial intelligence and machine vision: If human beings can see something in an image, it should be possible to program a computer to “see” the same thing.
Although some observing sites are blessed with AC power, most astrophotographers rely on batteries in the field. In fact I often use battery power even at home, both to make sure my field-trip equipment is working and for greater safety. Many of us also bring computers into the field, both for autoguiding and for camera control. This chapter surveys the use of batteries and electronic controls with astronomical equipment.
To take exposures longer than a few seconds, you must track the stars. That is, the telescope must compensate for the earth’s rotation so that the image stays in the same place on the sensor while the earth turns. This chapter covers the basics of using altazimuth and equatorial mounts, especially German equatorial mounts (GEMs).
Before going into the details of astrophotographic equipment, I need to outline how it is used. This chapter covers how to take pictures of deep-sky objects, including calibration frames. The actual processing and calibration are covered in Chapters 11–13, and lunar and planetary work, in Chapter 14.
Digital technology has revolutionized solar, lunar, and planetary imaging even more than deep-sky work. Amateurs with portable telescopes don’t just rival the best work done by observatories 50 years ago, they surpass it. Thanks to video imaging, we get planetary images better than anything that had been taken from earth before 1985 or so. Accordingly, this chapter addresses — at last — the sun, moon, and planets. The applicable techniques are such a vital part of astrophotography that they deserve coverage even if a DSLR is not always the ideal camera for practicing them.
This chapter surveys camera lenses for astrophotography, with emphasis on the telephoto lenses that are most used, but also covers other types, including the history of camera lens design.
This chapter covers camera settings and operation for astrophotography. In what follows, I’m going to assume that you have learned how to use your DSLR for daytime photography and that you have its instruction manual handy. No two cameras work exactly alike. Most DSLRs have enough in common that I can guide you through the key points of how to use them, but you should be on the lookout for exceptions.