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For traditional textiles, geographical indication (GI) protection offers improved brand visibility while insulating a hard-earned reputation against misuse. This form of IP has additional synergies with the shift towards more sustainable production and consumption in the global fashion industry. These textiles have conventionally used natural fibres, organic dyes and artisanal methods. They are also meant to be reused, unlike fast fashion. This chapter investigates this ‘GI optimism’, asking whether there are legal and institutional mechanisms to systematically reinforce sustainability commitments. It unpacks a recent regulatory reform in the EU, whereby the GI product specification can incorporate voluntary ‘sustainability undertakings’ by producer groups. The chapter concludes by observing that synergies between different aspects of sustainability should not be taken for granted, if GI law is to truly deliver on ‘threads that last’.
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