Published online by Cambridge University Press: 12 April 2006
The conventional long-wave equations for waves propagating over fluid of variable depth depend for their formal derivation on a Taylor series expansion of the velocity potential about the bottom. The expansion, however, is not possible if the depth is not an analytic function of the horizontal co-ordinates and it is a necessary condition for its rapid convergence that the depth is also slowly varying. We show that if in the case of two-dimensional motions the undisturbed fluid is first mapped conformally onto a uniform strip, before the Taylor expansion is made, the analytic condition is removed and the approximations implied in the lowest-order equations are much improved.
In the limit of infinitesimal waves of very long period, consideration of the form of the error suggests that by modifying the coefficients of the reformulated equation we may find an equation exact for arbitrary depth profiles. We are thus able to calculate the reflexion coefficients for long-period waves incident on a step change in depth and a half-depth barrier. The forms of the coefficients of the exact equation are not simple; however, for these particular cases, comparison with the coefficients of the reformulated long-wave equation suggests that in most cases the latter may be adequate. This opens up the possibility of beginning to study finite amplitude and frequency effects on regions of rapidly varying depth.
To send this article to your Kindle, first ensure no-reply@cambridge.org is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about sending to your Kindle. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.
Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.
Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.
To save this article to your Dropbox account, please select one or more formats and confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you used this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your Dropbox account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.
To save this article to your Google Drive account, please select one or more formats and confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you used this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your Google Drive account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.