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Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  06 November 2017

P. Bonneton Open the ORCID record for P. Bonneton [Opens in a new window]  and
D. Lannes
P. Bonneton*
Affiliation:
University of Bordeaux, CNRS, UMR 5805 EPOC, Allée Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, F-33615 Pessac, France
D. Lannes
Affiliation:
University of Bordeaux, IMB and CNRS, UMR 5251, Talence, F-33405, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: p.bonneton@epoc.u-bordeaux1.fr
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Abstract

The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results for the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specifically, our method accurately reproduces the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear wave fields. Therefore, it is particularly relevant for applications on extreme waves and wave-induced sediment transport.

JFM classification

Geophysical and Geological Flows: Coastal engineering Geophysical and Geological Flows: Ocean processes Waves/Free-surface Flows: Waves/Free-surface Flows

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Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 833 , 25 December 2017 , pp. 399 - 429
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Copyright
© 2017 Cambridge University Press 

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