In this paper, we focus on a discrete physical model describing granular crystals, whose equations of motion can be described by a system of differential difference equations. After revisiting earlier continuum approximations, we propose a regularized continuum model variant to approximate the discrete granular crystal model through a suitable partial differential equation. We then compute, both analytically and numerically, its travelling wave and periodic travelling wave solutions, in addition to its conservation laws. Next, using the periodic solutions, we describe quantitatively various features of the dispersive shock wave (DSW) by applying Whitham modulation theory and the DSW fitting method. Finally, we perform several sets of systematic numerical simulations to compare the corresponding DSW results with the theoretical predictions and illustrate that the continuum model provides a good approximation of the underlying discrete one.

This paper investigates the weakly nonlinear isotropic bidirectional Benney–Luke (BL) equation, which is used to describe oceanic surface and internal waves in shallow water, with a particular focus on soliton dynamics. Using the Whitham modulation theory, we derive the modulation equations associated with the BL equation that describe the evolution of soliton amplitude and slope. By analysing rarefaction waves and shock waves within these modulation equations, we derive the Riemann invariants and modified Rankine–Hugoniot conditions. These expressions help characterise the Mach expansion and Mach reflection phenomena of bent and reverse bent solitons. We also derive analytical formulae for the critical angle and the Mach stem amplitude, showing that as the soliton speed is in the vicinity of unity, the results from the BL equation align closely with those of the Kadomtsev–Petviashvili (KP) equation. Corresponding numerical results are obtained and show excellent agreement with theoretical predictions. Furthermore, as a far-field approximation for the forced BL equation – which models wave and flow interactions with local topography – the modulation equations yield a slowly varying similarity solution. This solution indicates that the precursor wavefronts created by topography moving at subcritical or critical speeds take the shape of a circular arc, in contrast to the parabolic wavefronts observed in the forced KP equation.

We investigate the effects of bottom roughness on bottom boundary-layer (BBL) instability beneath internal solitary waves (ISWs) of depression. Applying both two-dimensional (2-D) numerical simulations and linear stability theory, an extensive parametric study explores the effect of the Reynolds number, pressure gradient, roughness (periodic bump) height $h_b$ and roughness wavelength $\lambda _b$ on BBL instability. The simulations show that small $h_b$, comparable to that of laboratory-flume materials ($\sim$100 times less than the thickness of the viscous sublayer $\delta _v$), can destabilize the BBL and trigger vortex shedding at critical Reynolds numbers much lower than what occurs for numerically smooth surfaces. We identify two mechanisms of vortex shedding, depending on $h_b/\delta _v$. For $h_b/\delta _v \gtrapprox 1$, vortices are forced directly by local flow separation in the lee of each bump. Conversely, for $h_b/\delta _v \lessapprox 10^{-1}$ the roughness seeds perturbations in the BBL, which are amplified by the BBL flow. Roughness wavelengths close to those associated with the most unstable BBL mode, as predicted by linear instability theory, are preferentially amplified. This resonant amplification nature of the BBL flow, beneath ISWs, is consistent with what occurs in a BBL driven by surface solitary waves and by periodic monochromatic waves. Using the $N$-factor method for Tollmien–Schlichting waves, we propose an analogy between the roughness height and seed noise required to trigger instability. Including surface roughness, or more generally an appropriate level of seed noise, reconciles the discrepancies between the vortex-shedding threshold observed in the laboratory versus that predicted by otherwise smooth-bottomed 2-D spectral simulations.

Dusty plasmas typically contain various species of dust particles, though most studies have focused on homogeneous systems. This paper investigates the propagation of dust acoustic waves in an inhomogeneous dusty plasma with an interface, analysing how plasma inhomogeneity influences wave behaviour. Using scattering and reductive perturbation methods, we show that both transmitted and reflected waves depend strongly on the mass ratio between regions. Dust acoustic waves cannot propagate through a dust lattice when the wavelength is smaller than the lattice constant. At a discontinuous interface, at least one transmitted solitary wave is generated, with its amplitude determined by the mass ratio, while at most one reflected solitary wave can exist. These results underscore the critical role of the mass ratio in wave propagation and suggest a method for estimating dust particle masses and properties by analysing the incident, transmitted and reflected waves.

Evolution of solitary waves and an undular bore intruding through an abrupt transition from a wide basin into a narrow channel with opposing current is investigated. The laboratory experiments are performed in a wave tank that is crafted to achieve a steady and symmetrical shallow-water jet in the basin. The channel has a breadth comparable to the wave lengths, and the flow has Froude number approximately 0.1. The opposing current amplifies and slows the incoming waves on the jet in the basin, but the propagation speed is faster than the local Doppler effect of the current due to the influence of the wave propagating in the flank of the jet. At the channel mouth, the wave amplitude is enhanced due to the waveform altered by the current in the basin, although the amplification in the upstream channel is similar with and without the current. The longer incident waves have greater amplification into the channel. The leading wave of the undular bore is impacted by the opposing flow and transition similarly to the solitary waves. In contrast, the subsequent waves of the undular bore have a complex phase interference on the jet that causes disconnection in the lateral wave formation across the breadth of the jet. At the transition, the subsequent waves exhibit greater amplification than the leading one due to accumulated wave energy at the channel mouth. The intrusion of the undular bore against the current further enhances a rise in mean water level in the channel.

Mangroves are a natural defence of the coastal strip against extreme waves. Furthermore, innovative techniques of naturally based coast defence are used increasingly, according to the canons of eco-hydraulics. Therefore, it is important to correctly evaluate the transmission of waves through cylinder arrays. In the present paper, the attenuation of solitary waves propagating through an array of rigid emergent and submerged cylindrical stems on a horizontal bottom is investigated theoretically, numerically and experimentally. The results of the theoretical model are compared with the numerical simulations obtained with the smoothed particle hydrodynamics meshless Lagrangian numerical code and with experimental laboratory data. In the latter case, solitary waves were tested on a background current, in order to reproduce more realistic sea conditions, since the absence of circulation currents is very rare in the sea. The comparison confirmed the validity of the theoretical model, allowing its use for the purposes indicated above. Furthermore, the present study allowed for an evaluation of the bulk drag coefficient of the rigid stem arrays used, as a function of their density, the stem diameter, and their submergence ratio.

The stability and dynamics of solitary waves propagating along the surface of an inviscid ferrofluid jet in the absence of gravity are investigated analytically and numerically. For the axisymmetric geometry, the problem is shown to be a conservative system with total energy as the Hamiltonian; however, one of the canonical variables differs from those in the classic water-wave problem in the Cartesian coordinate system. The Dirichlet–Neumann operator appearing in the kinetic energy is then expanded as a Taylor series, described in homogeneous powers of the surface displacement. Based on the further analysis of the Dirichlet–Neumann operator, a systematic procedure is proposed to derive reduced model equations of multiple scales in various asymptotic limits from the full Euler equations in the Hamiltonian/Lagrangian framework. Particularly, a fully dispersive model arising from retaining terms valid up to the quartic order in the series expansion of the kinetic energy, which results in quadratic and cubic algebraic nonlinearities in Hamilton's equations and henceforth is abbreviated as the cubic full-dispersion model, is proposed. By comparing bifurcation curves and wave profiles of various types of axisymmetric solitary waves among different model equations, the cubic full-dispersion model is found to agree well with the full Euler equations, even for waves of considerably large amplitudes. The stability properties of axisymmetric solitary waves subjected to longitudinal disturbances are verified with the newly proposed model. Our analytical results, consistent with Saffman's theory, indicate that in the axisymmetric cylindrical system, the stability exchange subjected to superharmonic perturbations also occurs at the stationary point of the speed-energy bifurcation curve. A series of numerical experiments for the stability and dynamics of solitary waves are performed via the numerical time integration of the model equation, and collision interactions between stable solitary waves show non-elastic features.

Experimental studies on the sloshing of fluid layers are usually performed in rectangular tanks with fixed boundaries. In contrast, the present study uses a 4.76-m-long circular channel, a geometry with open periodic boundaries. Surface waves are excited by means of a submerged hill that, together with the tank, performs a harmonic oscillation. Laboratory measurements are made using 18 ultrasonic probes, evenly distributed over the channel to track the wave propagation. It is shown that a two-dimensional long-wave numerical model derived via the Kármán–Pohlhausen approach reproduces the experimental data as long as the forcing is monochromatic. The sloshing experiments imply a highly complex surface wave field. Different wave types such as solitary waves, undular bores and antisolitary waves are observed. For order one $\delta _{hill} = h_{hill}/h_0$, where $h_0$ is the mean water level and $h_{hill}$ the obstacle's height, the resonant reflections of solitary waves by the submerged obstacle give rise to an amplitude spectrum for which the main resonance peaks can be explained by linear theory. For smaller $\delta _{hill}$, wave transmissions lead to major differences with respect to the more common cases of sloshing with closed ducts having fully reflective ends for which wave transmission through the end walls is not possible. This ultimately results in more complex resonance diagrams and a pattern formation that changes rather abruptly with the frequency. The experiments are of interest not only for engineering applications but also for tidal flows over bottom topography.

In an open channel flow, deviations to the lower topography can induce abrupt changes in the wave height, known as hydraulic jumps. This phenomenon occurs when the flow switches from subcritical to supercritical (or vice versa), and is commonly observed in rivers, flumes and weirs. Theoretical insight is typically sought through the study of reduced models such as the forced Korteweg–de Vries equation, in which previous work has predominantly focused on either stationary formulations or the initial transient behaviour caused by perturbations. In a joint theoretical and numerical study of the free-surface Euler equations, Keeler & Blyth (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 993, 2024, A9) have detected a new class of unsteady solutions to this problem. These emerge from an unstable steady solution, and feature large-amplitude time-periodic ripples emitted from a sudden decrease in the water depth forced by topography, known as a hydraulic fall.

Internal solitary waves are a widely observed phenomenon in natural waters. Mathematically, they are fundamentally a nonlinear phenomenon that differs from the paradigm of turbulence, in that energy does not move across scales. Internal solitary waves may be computed from the Dubreil–Jacotin Long equation, which is a scalar partial differential equation that is equivalent to the stratified Euler equations. When a background shear current is present the algebraic complexity of the problem increases substantially. We present an alternative point of view for characterizing the situation with a shear current using Lagrangian (particle-like) models analysed with graph theoretic methods. We find that this yields a novel, data-centric framework for analysis that could prove useful well beyond the study of internal solitary waves.

The shoreline hazard posed by ocean long waves such as tsunamis and meteotsunamis critically depends on the fraction of energy transmitted across the shallow near-shore shelf. In linear setting, bathymetric inhomogeneities of length comparable to the incident wavelength act as a protective high-pass filter, reflecting long waves and allowing only shorter waves to pass through. Here, we show that, for weakly nonlinear waves, the transmitted energy flux fraction can significantly depend on the amplitude of the incoming wave. The basis of this mechanism is the formation of dispersive shock waves (DSWs), a salient feature of nonlinear evolution of long water waves, often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami evolution. Within the framework of the Boussinesq equations, we show that the DSWs efficiently transfer wave energy into the high wavenumber band, where reflection is negligible. This is phenomenologically similar to self-induced transparency in nonlinear optics: small amplitude long waves are reflected by the bathymetric inhomogeneity, while larger amplitude waves that develop DSWs blueshift into the transparency regime and pass through. We investigate this mechanism in a simplified setting that retains only the key processes of DSW disintegration and reflection, while the effects such as bottom dissipation and breaking are ignored. The results suggests that the phenomenon is a robust, order-one effect. In contrast, the increased transmission due to the growth of bound harmonics associated with the steepening of the wave is weak. The results of the simplified modelling are validated by simulations with the FUNWAVE-TVD Boussinesq model.

In this paper, a high-level Green–Naghdi (HLGN) model for large-amplitude internal waves in a two-layer fluid system, where the upper-fluid layer is of finite depth and the lower-fluid layer is of infinite depth, is developed under the rigid-lid free-surface approximation. The equations of the present HLGN model follow Euler's equations under the sole assumption that the horizontal and vertical velocity distributions along the vertical column are presented by known shape functions for each layer. The linear dispersion relations of the HLGN model for different levels are presented and compared with those obtained by other strongly nonlinear models for deep water, including the fully nonlinear models that include the dispersion effects $O(\mu )$ (where $\mu$ is the ratio of the upper-fluid layer depth to a typical wavelength) derived by Choi & Camassa (Phys. Rev. Lett., vol. 77, 1996, pp. 1759–1762) and $O(\mu ^2)$ derived by Debsarma et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 654, 2010, pp. 281–303). It is shown that the HLGN model has a wider application range than other models. Solutions of travelling large-amplitude internal solitary waves in the absence and presence of background shear-current are then investigated by using the HLGN model. For the no-current cases, results obtained by the HLGN model show better agreement with Euler's solution on wave profile, velocity profile at the maximum interface displacement and wave speed compared with those obtained by other models. For the background shear-current cases, results obtained by the HLGN model also show good agreement with those obtained by solving the Dubreil-Jacotin–Long equation.

We study the effect of a confined turbulent counter-current gas flow on the waviness of a weakly inclined falling liquid film. Our study is centred on experiments in a channel of 13 mm height, using water and air, where we have successively increased the counter-current gas flow rate until flooding. Computations with a new low-dimensional model and linear stability calculations are used to elucidate the linear and nonlinear wave dynamics. We find that the gas pressure gradient plays an important role in countering the stabilizing effect of the tangential gas shear stress at the liquid–gas interface. At very low inclination angles, the latter effect dominates and can suppress the long-wave Kapitza instability unconditionally. By contrast, for non-negligible inclination, the gas effect is linearly destabilizing, amplifies the height of nonlinear Kapitza waves, and exacerbates coalescence-induced formation of large-amplitude tsunami waves. Kapitza waves do not undergo any catastrophic transformation when the counter-current gas flow rate is increased beyond the absolute instability (AI) limit. On the contrary, we find that AI is an effective linear wave selection mechanism in a noise-driven wave evolution scenario, leading to highly regular downward-travelling nonlinear wave trains, which preclude coalescence events. In our experiments, where Kapitza waves develop in a protected region before coming into contact with the gas, flooding is eventually caused far beyond the AI limit by upward-travelling short-wave ripples. Based on our linear stability calculations for arbitrary wavenumbers, we have uncovered a new short-wave interfacial instability mode with negative linear wave speed, causing these ripples.

The strongly nonlinear Miyata–Choi–Camassa model under the rigid lid approximation (MCC-RL model) can describe accurately the dynamics of large-amplitude internal waves in a two-layer fluid system for shallow configurations. In this paper, we apply the MCC-RL model to study the internal waves generated by a moving body on the bottom. For the case of the moving body speed $U=1.1c_{0}$, where ${c_0}$ is the linear long-wave speed, the accuracy of the MCC-RL results is assessed by comparing with Euler's solutions, and very good agreement is observed. It is found that when the moving body speed increases from $U=0.8c_{0}$ to $U=1.241c_{0}$, the amplitudes of the generated internal solitary waves in front of the moving body become larger. However, a critical moving body speed is found between $U=1.241c_{0}$ and $U=1.242c_{0}$. After exceeding this critical speed, only one internal wave right above the body is generated. When the moving body speed increases from $U=1.242c_{0}$ to $U=1.5c_{0}$, the amplitudes of the internal waves become smaller.

Numerical simulations of the interaction of internal solitary waves (ISWs) of opposite polarity are conducted by solving the incompressible Euler equations under the Boussinesq approximation. A double-pycnocline stratification is used. A method to determine when ISWs of both polarities exist is also presented. The simulations confirm previous work that the interaction of waves of the same polarity are soliton-like; however, here it is shown that when a fast ISW with the same polarity as a Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) solitary wave catches up and interacts with a slower ISW of opposite polarity, the interaction can be far from soliton-like. The energy in the fast KdV-polarity wave can increase by more than a factor of 5 while the energy in the slower negative-KdV-polarity wave can decrease by 50 %. Large trailing wave trains may be generated and in some cases multiple ISWs with KdV polarity may be formed by the interaction.

The shape of depth-limited breaking-wave overturns is important for turbulence injection, bubble entrainment and sediment suspension. Overturning wave shape depends on a nonlinearity parameter $H/h$, where $H$ is the wave height, and $h$ is the water depth. Cross-shore wind direction (offshore/onshore) and magnitude affect laboratory shoaling wave shape and breakpoint location $X_{{bp}}$, but wind effects on overturning wave shape are largely unstudied. We perform field-scale experiments at the Surf Ranch wave basin with fixed bathymetry and $\approx 2.25$ m shoaling solitons with small height variations propagating at $C=6.7\ \mathrm {m}\ \mathrm {s}^{-1}$. Observed non-dimensional cross-wave wind $U_w$ was onshore and offshore, varying realistically ($-1.2 < U_{w}/C < 0.7$). Georectified images, a wave staff, and lidar are used to estimate $X_{{bp}}$, $H/h$, overturn area $A$ and aspect ratio for 22 waves. The non-dimensionalized $X_{{bp}}$ was inversely related to $U_{w}/C$. The non-dimensional overturn area and aspect ratio also were inversely related to $U_{w}/C$, with smaller and narrower overturns for increasing onshore wind. No overturning shape dependence on the weakly varying $H/h$ was seen. The overturning shape variation was as large as prior laboratory experiments with strong $H/h$ variations without wind. An idealized potential air flow simulation on steep shoaling soliton shape has strong surface pressure variations, potentially inducing overturning shape changes. Through wave-overturning impacts on turbulence and sediment suspension, coastal wind variations could be relevant for near-shore morphology.

Experiments are conducted in water films falling along the bottom wall of a weakly inclined rectangular channel of height $5$ mm in the presence of a laminar counter-current air flow. Boundary conditions have been specifically designed to avoid flooding at the liquid outlet, thus allowing us to focus on the wave dynamics in the core of the channel. Surface waves are excited via coherent inlet forcing before they come into contact with the air flow. The effect of the air flow on the height, shape and speed of two-dimensional travelling nonlinear waves is investigated and contrasted with experiments of Kofman, Mergui & Ruyer-Quil (Intl J. Multiphase Flow, vol. 95, 2017, pp. 22–34), which were performed in a weakly confined channel. We observe a striking difference between these two cases. In our strongly confined configuration, a monotonic stabilizing effect or a non-monotonic trend (i.e. the wave height first increases and then diminishes upon increasing the gas flow rate) is observed, in contrast to the weakly confined configuration where the gas flow is always destabilizing. This stabilizing effect implies the possibility of attenuating waves via the gas flow and it confirms recent numerical results obtained by Lavalle et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 919, 2021, R2) in a superconfined channel.

In this paper, we investigate mode-2 solitary waves in a three-layer stratified flow model. Localised travelling wave solutions to both the fully nonlinear problem (Euler equations), and the three-layer Miyata–Choi–Camassa equations are found numerically and compared. Mode-2 solitary waves with speeds slower than the linear mode-1 long-wave speed are typically generalised solitary waves with infinite tails consisting of a resonant mode-1 periodic wave train. Herein, we evidence the existence of mode-2 embedded solitary waves, that is, we show that for specific values of the parameters, the amplitude of the oscillations in the tail are zero. For sufficiently thick middle layers, we also find branches of mode-2 solitary waves with speeds that extend beyond the mode-1 linear waves and are no longer embedded. In addition, we show how large amplitude embedded solitary waves are intimately linked to the conjugate states of the problem.

A strongly nonlinear long-wave approximation is adopted to obtain a high-order model for large-amplitude long internal waves in a two-layer system by assuming the water depth is much smaller than the typical wavelength. When truncated at the first order, the model can be reduced to the regularized strongly nonlinear model of Choi et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 629, 2009, pp. 73–85), which lessens the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability excited by the tangential velocity jump across the interface in the inviscid Miyata–Choi–Camassa (MCC) equations. Using the second-order model, the next-order correction to the internal solitary wave solution of the MCC equations is found and its validity is examined with the Euler solution in terms of the wave profile, the effective wavelength and the velocity profile. It is shown that the correction greatly improves the comparison with the Euler solution for the whole range of wave amplitudes and no further correction is necessary for practical applications. Based on a local stability analysis, the region of stability for the second-order long-wave model is identified in the physical parameter space so that the efficient numerical scheme developed for the first-order model can be used for the second-order model.

A new two-equation model for gravity-driven liquid film flow based on the long-wave expansion has been derived. The novelty of the model consists in using a base velocity profile combining parabolic (Ruyer-Quil & Manneville, Eur. Phys. J. B, vol. 15, issue 2, 2000, pp. 357–369) and ellipse (Usha et al., Phys. Fluids, vol. 32, issue 1, 2020, 013603) profile functions in the wall-normal coordinate. The dependence on a free parameter $A$ related to the eccentricity of an ellipse serves as an adjustable parameter. The resulting models are consistent at $O(\varepsilon )$ for inertia terms and at $O(\varepsilon ^2)$ for viscous diffusion effects, and predict accurately the primary instability. Appropriate tuning of the adjustable parameter helps to recover accurate predictions for the asymptotic wave celerity of nonlinear solitary waves. Further, the model is shown to capture the closed separation vortices that can form underneath the troughs of precursory capillary ripples.